Travel memoir

Uluru, Northern Territory

A story of a German-Dutch couple’s journey from Berlin to Down Under amid the peak of a global pandemic. Last updated: May’24.

Wassenaar, 1st January 2021

Today, I started putting my thoughts and experiences into writing. I’ve been thinking about writing for a while now. Last year brought big changes to my life. It was tough losing my dear and brave mother, who fought cancer courageously and her passing has deeply affected me. I also quit my desk job at a German based startup and took up a 10-month volunteering position in nature conservation. Even though the company was a great and ambitious place to work, this change felt right as I became slightly disillusioned with companies that prioritise profits over everything else. So my time volunteering at Naturschutzstation Rhinluch (Conservation centre Rhinluch) deepened my passion for protecting nature in a hands-on way—from taking care of endangered turtles and lizards to maintaining protected areas in Brandenburg, every part of the work had a positive impact on me. Working with dedicated people to preserve nature was incredibly inspiring and watching Dr. Schneeweiss, the Director of the conservation centre, and his team and seeing their hard work over the years made me really admire the entrepreneurial spirit in conservation. More on my experiences can be read in this post.

I also got to explore northern Brandenburg, especially the Uckermark region. This area has hidden gems like picturesque villages, lush forests mixed with vast plains, and rolling fields thriving in agriculture. Plus, driving around in a 4×4 on sometimes very rugged terrain was definitely useful, as this skill became part of our journey Down Under.

2nd January

I had a very relaxed day back home in the Netherlands. The three of us went for a nice walk after breakfast. We explored a path through the dunes that Gerard, my stepfather, hadn’t discovered yet, enjoying an hour of sunshine. The weather during Christmas, New Year’s Eve, and the following days was a mix of rain and brief dry spells. Reflecting on the past, 2020 and 2014 were recorded as the warmest years since records began in 1901. Interestingly, a century ago, the average yearly temperature was 9ºC; in 2020, it was about 12ºC. While a shift of 3ºC might not seem like much, it has had a significant impact, for example, on Brandenburg’s weather patterns and ecological balance.

After lunch, Juliane and I visited beautiful apartment of my niece in The Hague. Nicole lives in a modern style building and offered us a stunning 180º view, including the impressive distant views from Rotterdam and Hoek van Holland. For me, maintaining family connections is important as it helps us cherish the stories of our shared past. Talking with Nicole is always a joy, filled with ‘gezellige’ family moments, and she, like her mother Yvonne, has a knack for storytelling.

We also planned a visit to my brother, who, as the Maître d’ at his restaurant in The Hague, is dealing with the ongoing challenges of the Corona measures. The pandemic has been tough for small business owners. But it’s astonishing how, apparently, human actions can lead to such a widespread outbreak, serving as a wake-up call to reconsider our lifestyles. Mobility restrictions leads us to rethink our travel, consumption, and environmental impact but there have been protests and demonstrations against these measures in the Netherlands, Germany, and other European countries. But what’s really at the heart of the issue? My thoughts only go so far as to understand that these measures aim to protect the most vulnerable and, in turn, try to protect us all. But, yes, it’s all an experiment and I realise that not everyone finds it easy to agree with this perspective.

We entered his restaurant, which felt like a second home to me. A few customers were sitting at the bar, waiting for their takeaway orders while enjoying a drink. Although it was quiet, the COVID rules were being interpreted somewhat loosely. Marcel insisted we enjoy a meal, and we savoured moules à l’escargot, served with slices of baguette perfect for dipping in the garlicky oil. During our meal, Marcel expressed his hope that we would be willing to come back to the Netherlands to support Gerard, should the time come. If Parkinson’s disease prevents Gerard from taking care of himself, Marcel believes we should be here, just as he was there for our mother during her illness. I assured Marcel I would stand by Gerard during tough times. However, imagining this scenario is easier said than done, considering a vast distance of 15,000 kilometres will separate us. Also, having lived abroad for nearly 15 years, moving back to the Netherlands hadn’t yet crossed my mind. I was surprised by this sudden topic, and my response seemed to upset my brother, making the atmosphere grow tense. However, we both agreed that it would be more appropriate to delve into these matters another time. I think he deeply misses our mother, and I wholeheartedly share his feelings, as I miss her too.

Berlin, Germany, 3rd January

It was time to head back to Berlin. Saying goodbye was increasingly difficult, and a tear escaped as we drove away from Gerard. However, I had already decided to return later in January for another conversation with Marcel. The journey back was peaceful, with the road quiet and a drizzle of wet snow greeting us in Hanover. The upcoming week will be devoted to planning and attending to any remaining tasks for our departure. A particular thought has been on my mind since the conversation with my brother: To what extent can one demand that someone who has emigrated to a distant country return in the event of a significant family crisis? There are different perspectives to consider, but this was my first time really contemplating this question. It is understandable and fair that my brother raised it.

I completed several tasks for Australia and look forward to continuing my progress tomorrow. We also revisited changing our flight destination from Sydney to Perth. Juliane suggested this option in case of border closures due to the Coronavirus in Western Australia. However, after considering the cost of €8,000 per person, we decided to stick with our original plan. I also took a moment to appreciate the vast size of New South Wales, our next destination, on Google Maps, which seems formidable to navigate. NSW may be home to Sydney, Australia’s largest city, but it is only the fourth largest state in Australia with 801,150 square kilometres. Western Australia, Queensland and South Australia are all bigger, as is the Northern Territory.

The next day, I dedicated some time to sorting through paperwork and making phone calls to clarify my pension situation. It may not have been the most exciting task, but it was necessary. I also had a discussion with Juliane about our will because we thought this trip is a good opportunity to get things like this sorted. Interestingly, due to the impact of the pandemic, the topic of wills seems to be receiving increased attention, as highlighted in an article from the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung titled ‘Wenn die Schwiegermutter das Haus erbt’ (‘When the mother-in-law inherits the house’) dated 29.03.2020. Bottom line is that many couples mistakenly believe that marriage automatically excludes other relatives from inheritance rights, which can be a costly illusion. On a lighter note, I also watched a few YouTube videos about feral animals in Australia. It’s astonishing to witness how successfully non-native creatures such as wild boars, camels, goats, and cats have adapted to that environment, causing significant problems. Their presence disrupts ecosystems, leading to far-reaching consequences. Agriculture and the livelihoods of people are also affected by this issue. Interestingly, according to an article on theconversation.com titled “Feral cat cull: why the 2 Million target is on scientifically shaky ground”, it seems that mass killing or shooting of these animals may not be the most effective solution. The focus on killing cats risks distracting attention from other threats to native wildlife. These threats include habitat loss, which is politically sensitive because its main driver is the clearing of land to make way for economic activities such as agriculture, urban development, and mining.

I’m finally nearing the end of my paperwork. I’ve taken care of various letters and set up my digital mailbox. In addition to that, I enjoyed watching a fascinating YouTube video featuring the Australian bushcraft expert, Major Leslie James Hiddins AM, known as “The Bush Tucker Man”, a retired Australian Army soldier and war veteran. I guess this kind of stuff is part of my getting-prepared-mindset. It’s incredible to see how he used to travel across Australia in search of edible plants, animals, and insects. He also emphasises the importance of learning from the indigenous Australians, as they possess valuable knowledge on coexisting harmoniously with the Australian natural environment. You can check out the video here: https://youtu.be/02eQszDVC5o?si=pzRwerbKxJ4fMEqa In the afternoon, Juliane and I took a walk to the post office. I shared with her some news about China allowing a WHO team of virologists and other experts to investigate the origins of the coronavirus. Juliane said it is more important to focus on how we can fight the virus but I guess that we all want to know how it got this far in the first place. There was also disturbing news about Trump supporters invading Capitol Hill and the possibility of a coup.

It’s early Thursday morning, and I found myself with a few remaining tasks to attend to at the conservation centre where I volunteer. By around 10 am, I had arrived at a location in the region of Angermünde-Altkünkendorf, which I can’t disclose, to lay tiles for one of the animal enclosures. There is a plan to bring in an additional 500 kg of fine sand from the Kiesgrube to create a solid foundation, and once that is accomplished, I can wrap up my work. The weather was quite chilly, with temperatures at zero degrees, requiring extra effort to keep warm. The surroundings were tranquil, with only the occasional sighting of robins or ducks soaring above—very peaceful. In front of the old mill, there is a large pond full of water flora. The outdoor facilities for the turtles and common European adder were abandoned, and construction is underway in anticipation of spring when ten endangered snakes will emerge from hibernation.

Back in Berlin, and after a refreshing jog in the morning, we had a Zoom call with a tax advisor. It proved to be an informative session, as we received clarity on various aspects concerning our apartment, rental, tax returns, and other fiscal matters while being overseas. With this newfound understanding, we authorised the advisor to handle our tax affairs. It remains to be seen whether we will require the services of an Australian tax advisor in the future. Since we moved from Düsseldorf to Berlin in 2018, where we parted with many possessions, we have unofficially embraced the philosophy of ‘less is more’. This mindset has proven to be quite transformative, not only freeing up physical space but also creating a sense of mental clarity. Over time, my view on consumption has also gradually evolved. Partly because of Juliane, I occasionally enjoy a well-prepared piece of honest meat or fish, but mainly plant-based meals dominate our menu choice. The less is more mentality has therefore become an integral part of our lifestyle and the choices that come with it. But yes, it remains an ongoing challenge as we live in a consumption-driven society. I don’t think it’s any different in Australia.

According to several news outlets, the mutated virus from the United Kingdom has also been detected in Australia. Prime Minister Scott Morrison announced that from mid-February 2021, NSW and Queensland will revert to previous caps on international arrivals, allowing 3,010 and 1,000 people weekly, respectively. Western Australia’s cap remains reduced. South Australia and Victoria have increased their caps to 530 and 1,310 per week, totalling 6,362 nationwide.

There is so much going on and we really need to gather more information in the coming weeks to understand its implications for our journey.

State	15th Jan 2021	Today	Feb 15 2021
NSW	3,010	1,505	3,010
VIC	1,120	1,120	1,310
Qld	1,000	500	1,000
SA	490	490	530
WA	1,025	512	512
Total	6,645	4,127	6,362

Mücheln (Geiseltal), Germany, 9 January

This weekend, we visited Juliane’s family and left early for Schmirma, a 2.5-hour drive south of Berlin. The car was largely full of my mother’s clothes and shoes, which we had brought from our last visit to the Netherlands; Gerard does not feel very attached to these items and we thought that some members of the family would be happy to wear them. We had a good time with her family. On Saturday evening, we gathered at the old farmhouse in the heart of the small village, where Juliane’s brother, Hans-Georg, lives with Susie and their children, and her sister Anna with her husband, Karsten. Juliane’s parents were absent this time, giving the sisters an opportunity to reconnect. The next morning was sunny but chilly, and after a hearty breakfast, we went for a walk in the area where the Himmelsscheibe von Nebra (Nebra sky disc) was discovered. This round bronze slab, decorated with gold embellishments, is believed to be the oldest known representation of the sky, dating back 3,700 to 4,100 years. The area is breathtaking, with forests spread over rolling hills of farmland.

During our return journey, I caught a radio report stating that a new variant had been identified in Japan, in addition to the coronavirus mutations originating from the United Kingdom and South Africa. As these updates unfolded, we also discussed our upcoming trip. Although we had made our bookings well in advance, uncertainty still loomed regarding our departure on the 15th of February 2021 due to Sydney Airport’s weekly limit of 1,505 arrivals. This cap reflects the broader challenges posed by the enduring presence of the coronavirus, which continues to shape our world and leave me pondering what lies ahead. This global health crisis underscores the importance of international cooperation, a point emphasised by Salim Abdool Karim, a South African public health physician, epidemiologist, and virologist, in The Guardian. Karim introduced the term “vaccine nationalism” and expressed concerns about the detrimental impact of wealthier nations prioritising their interests over those of poorer countries. He warned, “None of us is safe if one of us is not,” advocating for worldwide collaboration as essential to successful vaccination efforts.

On January 11, my day started with an online article titled ‘Why it’s time to stop relentlessly pursuing happiness.’ It highlighted that excessive pursuit of happiness can have counterproductive effects. Instead, it proposed a more balanced approach: ‘Prepare for the worst, hope for the best, and be pleasantly surprised by everything in between.’ This triggered a recollection of a conversation Juliane and I had with Gerard a few days before Christmas. He expressed curiosity about our expectations of Australia. I waited for Juliane to answer, and she spoke of her deep affinity for embracing nature and the prospect of new experiences and meeting new people. Our decision to go on this journey is driven by the idea that it will ultimately contribute to our joy in life. It is not just a reliance on happiness but rather a combination of factors that hold value to us. For instance, the opportunity to spend prolonged periods in the great outdoors, or to secure a job in conservation.

While in Sydney, I’m keen on visiting “Bayala Nura: Yarning Country” at The Australian Museum. This exhibition offers a rich tapestry of objects and stories illuminating Australia’s Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander cultures. It will provide a valuable opportunity to deepen our understanding of their living traditions and heritage. On the topic of Indigenous Australians, I feel it’s important to understand the challenging aspects of their past and present, as illuminated by the thought-provoking book “Why Weren’t We Told?” by Henry Reynolds. This work, recommended by my wife, uncovers confronting stories based on extensive literary research and interviews. It sheds light on the misinformation many Australians were exposed to in the 1960s and 1970s regarding the history of European settlement in Australia. Particularly distressing is the unequal treatment that Indigenous Australians have endured, which continues to harm many lives. Such injustices are not to be overlooked, as the social and human aspects are crucial for fostering sustainable social development. Promoting equal opportunities, respect, and fairness remains an ongoing challenge for modern day societies. It’s a bit paradoxical to embark on a journey to a country where certain groups of people have been marginalised due to the echoes of colonial history. However, it’s essential to approach our journey with an open mind, ready to learn, listen, and somehow contribute meaningfully to the ongoing dialogue around reconciliation and social equality.

I arrived at the location in Angermünde-Altkünkendorf on a cold January 12th. The air was filled with winter winds and light snow, making everything quiet and calm. Inside, I realised I had a few last tasks to complete and just one more visit before my volunteer work ended. While waiting for my late colleagues, I started warming up the house. The old mill, restored about 15 years ago, had electric heaters to keep the rooms warm. The renovation had blended the mill’s old charm with new comforts, making it a welcoming place. Leaving the old mill, I noticed people often reacted with surprise and admiration when we talked about our plans. Our decision to start this open-ended adventure sparked curiosity, leading to questions about our work prospects and future plans. I usually tell them that we have a rough idea of what we want to do, but where we’ll finally settle isn’t decided yet — we plan to have no plan. People often say, “Oh, how exciting!” It’s interesting to see that moving abroad is still seen as something bold and brave. By the way, I’ve listed our car for sale and the first responses are coming in, mainly Eastern European or Turkish buyers.

Berlin, 14th January

When I shop at Original Unverpackt, a store around our corner in Kreuzberg ‘am Görli’, that sells a range of organic and sustainable products mostly in bulk or for bottling, I appreciate not having to deal with unnecessary packaging. Their approach is simple: bring your own containers and fill them up. Additionally, I offset the carbon emissions from our flights to Sydney through Atmosfair, a Berlin-based non-profit that helps individuals and businesses with carbon offsetting. I became familiar with this organisation through a project at a Berlin startup I worked at. Our flight alone emits 4.5 tons of CO2 per person, which totals 9 tons. This amount is equivalent to driving 12,000 km in an average car for a year. Offsetting this cost €210, funding projects that directly reduce CO2 emissions, such as providing solar-powered stoves to women in an African country, which helps decrease their reliance on forest wood. I’ve heard that carbon offsetting allows people to ease their guilt without making major changes to their lifestyle or habits. However, I think it’s an essential first step in taking responsibility for the environmental costs of our personal actions. Sure, CO2 compensation should Ideally extend to areas like housing, mobility, dining out, shopping, and air travel, but it’s a gradual process. Regarding air travel, this industry faces significant challenges due to the impact of COVID. The question is: how will it recover, and what changes can we expect in travel behaviour? The global response to vaccinations will also influence this recovery. If many less affluent countries need help with vaccination programs, the recovery in travel might slow down due to concerns about flying to these areas, temporarily easing the impact on the environment. Nonetheless, it’s very likely that things will return to normal once COVID-restrictions are lifted and we’re back to BAU.

As we prepare for our trip, Juliane and I decided to get two new insurance policies: disability and life insurance. We chose these policies to match our changing plans and the realities of aging and other risks, even extreme ones like shark attacks. With this coverage, we’re set until 2039, giving us peace of mind…

It’s mid-January, and we’re off to visit Juliane’s cousin, the Schmidt family, who live in Fürstenwalde. After arrival, we went for a leisurely stroll around Trebuser See, contemplating life in Brandenburg, upcoming travel plans, and work prospects. The question that was once again a topic of discussion was our expectations about the trip and work arrangements. As for the latter, I must admit it remains a question mark, but we feel quite relaxed about it. Nevertheless, my desire to make a career change persists, especially after my volunteering experience in nature conservation, leading me away from the private sector. Well, let’s see how that goes. Upon returning to their home, I discussed a topic we had touched upon during Christmas festivities with Thomas, Elisabeth’s husband. We pondered whether the European colonialists deliberately classified the inhabitants of new territories, such as Australia, as strategically inferior or did they genuinely believe them to be a distinct (lesser) race. I suspected that when venturing into new territory where people look and behave differently, and where communication apart from body language has no crossover, it might have been easier for some colonists to justify their latest conquest or occupation by considering the population a separate race, enabling them to claim land without a guilty conscience. Also, it was a different time, and the whole notion of exploring the new frontier was just different. I don’t know if this was true, though; it’s indeed a sombre reflection.

We woke up early, and Elisabeth suggested we observe the cranes, a type of large bird with long legs and necks, in the fields. After a hearty breakfast, the four of us went on a field trip towards Beerfelde/Schönfelde. The surroundings were pristine white, with temperatures just below freezing. The sky wore a soft grey tone, painting a wintry landscape where the fields nearly blended into the atmosphere. While scanning the horizon, we kept an eye out for the birds that appeared to thrive in this area, defying the instinct to migrate south for a warmer winter. At approximately 200 meters, we spotted a group of around 150 cranes. It paled compared to the many birds I had witnessed soaring overhead throughout the summer in Linum while working in the conservation centre. It was an exquisite sight. They possess an exceptional adaptability that allows them to endure the harsher winters and reside here throughout the year. Perhaps this is an unintended positive consequence of climate change—an expansion of our native bird species.

During a casual conversation in one of my WhatsApp groups with our Uncle Bert and nephew Caesar, my brother brought up another thought-provoking point about Australia and our concern for the environment. In his usual straightforward manner, he suggested that if we truly care for the environment, flying there would contradict our beliefs. It’s easier said than done, of course. In response, I mentioned that we had offset the CO2 emissions from our flight. However, his argument has some truth, even though it’s not really feasible given the pandemic that’s causing disruptions. I’ve been trying to tell him that adopting a more conscious lifestyle and embracing sustainability is a gradual process that poses personal challenges. It requires carefully considering whether our consumption choices are worth the environmental costs or if there are better alternatives available. For example, Juliane and I had initially planned to take the Trans-Siberian Railway from Berlin to China or Vietnam and then cover the remaining distance to Sydney with a relatively short flight. It was a route that would have taken a considerable amount of time, but we saw it as a realistic option. Unfortunately, this alternative must be set aside for now due to the ongoing travel restrictions.

As I made my way to Linum for my final day of work on January 19th, the drive from Berlin, accompanied by snowfall, transformed the white fields surrounding the village and the small gardens of its 700-something inhabitants into a picturesque winter wonderland. During a chat with the manager, Norbert, we discussed the liberating feeling of getting rid of everything that does not matter. I shared our preparations for Australia, emphasising our focus on decluttering. We carefully evaluate everything we own, deciding what truly matters and what we can do without. Ultimately, we want to hold onto only the essentials. Juliane likens this phase to a ‘Frühlingsputz’, or spring cleaning. What makes this preparation phase fascinating is our reflection on both the present and the unknown future that lies ahead. Norbert related to this, recalling his own pivotal moment in 1989 when the Berlin Wall fell. He had just completed his biology studies at Humboldt University and spent two years working for WWF in Russia and Mongolia. There, he gained valuable knowledge about conservation and enjoyed the freedom of being immersed in nature. Afterward, he faced a decision: continue working in harsh environments or return to Germany. Reflecting on that time of boundless possibilities and no obligations, Norbert cherished those rare moments in life. Treasure such instances before becoming entangled in the demands of daily life—I wholeheartedly share this perspective.

As I walked through the halls of the conservation station, I noticed the absence of many colleagues due to quarantine rules, which forced them to work remotely from home. Along the way, I bumped into Elisabeth, a colleague responsible for the daily care of our reptiles residents. Chatting with her has always been a pleasure, as she possesses a wealth of practical knowledge about amphibians and offers unique perspectives. Whenever we discussed the diverse range of creeping insects and reptiles we might encounter, her eyes would light up with passion. Once, I mentioned the inland taipan, often cited as the world’s most venomous snake, which can reach lengths of up to 2.5 meters and resides in the remote outback stretching between Queensland and South Australia—an area we would like to explore. If I ever encountered one, I joked, the first thing that comes to minds is ‘Run!’ Elisabeth would respond with a fascinated smile, saying, ‘Enjoy your last few minutes with this beautiful creature!’ It was clear that she held a genuine fondness for reptiles.

As we progressed with sorting and organising, cleaning out the basement and kitchen, bringing us closer to the end. And soon, we would be able to shift our focus to cleaning the house for our new tenants. The remaining things were listed on eBay or given to friends, family, and strangers – folk that responded to our local eBay listings. In the afternoon, I received a call from the Arbeitsagentur to ensure that I had completed all the necessary steps for unemployment benefit, as technically, I had been unemployed during the transitional period between my last job at the startup and my recent volunteering. The person on the other end of the line happened to be a chatty bloke from the Republic of the Congo, and our conversation took an surprising turn. We exchanged opinions on various topics, such as the Coronavirus and the colonial past of his home country, the Netherlands and Australia. He spoke about the European colonisation of the Congo Basin, also known simply as the Congo, and how Western consumption habits had adversely affected the Congolese people. Even though the times of overseas conquest brought our society times of prosperity, they consequently became increasingly disconnected from nature, leading to significant changes in our diets. We both agreed that maintaining a nutritious and diverse diet has become a challenge for many in today’s world. My Congolese conversationalist emphasised that because of our consumption habits, our immune system has weakened. As a result, making us Westerners more susceptible to viruses like we experience at the moment, the contagious disease caused by the severe acute respiratory syndrome SARS-CoV-2, a strain of coronavirus that causes COVID-19. Interestingly, he mentioned that the people of his country seemed to have greater resilience against the disease. A statement I doubt, but do not pronounce.

This morning, I kicked off the day with a jog from our lively neighbourhood to the serene woodlands of Plänterwald, an 8-hectare forest located east of the city. As I ran, I was accompanied by the melodious songs of birds—a refreshing change from the urban sounds of our Wrangel-Kiez. The temperature was a pleasant 7 degrees, but the thawing soil had made the forest paths muddy. Running and other exercises have been substantial in our preparations, ensuring that we start our journey feeling both energised and in good physical shape. However, I must admit that the prospect of a two-week hotel quarantine, with its limitations on freedom of movement, isn’t something I’m looking forward to. Just like the professional tennis players at the 2021 Australian Open in Melbourne Park, we’ll try to recreate three-hour workout sessions and even cover a distance of five kilometres within the confined space of our modest 20-square-meter hotel room.

The coronavirus infection statistics of Thursday the 21th of January:

Germany:
Total infections: 2,088,400
Infection rate: 2.51%
7-day average of new infections: 14,135

Netherlands:
Total infections: 940,106
Infection rate: 5.49%
7-day average of new infections: 5,480

Australia:
Total infections: 28,749
Infection rate: 0.11%
7-day average of new infections: 12

A strong difference in the infection rates between the three countries.

By the way, I read an article in Zeit Geschichten about the summer of 1896 when Berliners visited ‘Die Welt der Deutschen Kolonien’ at the Treptower Karpfenteich. The article explores the historical roots of racism in the age of enlightenment and colonialism and how Europeans used the invention of “races” to justify their quest for great power as a “natural” and world-enhancing mission. The evil seeds that were sown back then have sunk deep into our thinking: they are part of the colonial legacy that we still carry around with us today. It’s hard to imagine now, but the part of the park where I often run—filled with singing birds, ducks on the water, and occasionally some Berliners braving the cold water—looks so peaceful.

Berlin, 22nd of January

We began the emigration process in November 2018. We applied for the Skilled Independent Visa 189, a points system based on education and work experience. Our application was approved on February 22, 2020, giving us exactly one year to arrive in Australia. We booked a one-way flight to Sydney for February 15, 2021, but the unfolding pandemic created uncertainty due to frequent flight disruptions and changing regulations. Juliane hesitated about travelling on that date—what did we have to lose by trying? After all the preparations, I felt we were ready to make the move. Waiting longer and risking the need to reapply didn’t seem viable. However, we debated whether travelling during a global escalation of the pandemic was responsible. Some friends had already taken the risk after months of home confinement going on a short holiday trip. We were well aware of our responsibility not to accidentally spread the virus. Given Australia’s stringent COVID-19 measures and our low risk of exposing others (I refer to the travel caps), along with having quit our jobs and rented out our Berlin apartment from the 15th onward to a friendly couple from Stuttgart, not going was no longer an option.

The news, especially those focusing on Australian mainstream media, was overflowing with information about the country’s current COVID-19 situation. However, the virus caused constant changes in regulations, making accessing up-to-date information rather challenging. Instead of relying solely on those websites, we decided to get our information straight from the authorities, steering clear of the media frenzy. I think that this whole situation made us extra alert to the potential dangers of our trip, and generally speaking, Juliane prefers to be absolutely on the safe side, so we opted to take out additional insurance. Newly added to our existing portfolio were life and disability insurance. With these policies in place, we are confident that there will be sufficient funds for the surviving partner in case of an unexpected tragedy, whether it be from a virus, snake, spider, shark, or tiny jellyfish. At least something was certain—on paper.

Wassenaar, 26th January

I drove back to Wassenaar, and on the radio, I heard that for the second consecutive night, there were riots because of the newly implemented curfew. According to EenVandaag, a daily live current affairs program on TV, the streets were quieter on the third night. There was even talk of Dutch soccer supporters taking to the streets to “defend” their city—a bizarre situation. Speaking with Gerard, he mentioned that finding and securing a job will be a significant milestone. “You want to keep your options open on one side and work toward some kind of security on the other,” he said. “But you don’t want to board the plane with too much certainty,” which could strip away the entire adventurous edge of the trip. I’ve always had such “father-to-son” conversations with Gerard, and they help me reflect. By the way, the unemployment rate in Australia increased from 5% in 2019 to 5.2% in January 2020, and then further increased to 6.4% in January 2021. This indicates a worsening job market condition compared to previous years, as more people are unable to find employment and likely exacerbated by the economic effects of the pandemic.

Today was quite a day that began with Gerard, Marcel, and me meeting in The Hague for an appointment with the notary. As we sat down, the conversation flowed smoothly, and the legal matters regarding my mother’s will became clear. Despite the formalities, I felt a sense of unease lingering in the air, especially as I witnessed my brother’s impatience and his secretive actions to find out more about the inheritance leading up to our discussion with the notary, leaving me conflicted as I hadn’t expected such behaviour from him. After the meeting, we headed to my brother’s restaurant and had coffee at the bar. It seemed we were all on the same page and had a clear understanding of the information provided by the notary. Later in the afternoon, I talked with Gerard about the potential benefits of immersing ourselves in a new culture. Exploring opportunities such as temporary work on farms or vineyards could offer invaluable insights into the local way of life. I’m unsure if my partner shares my enthusiasm for this idea. 

Amid family matters, I suggested we start clearing the attic, as the house would soon go up for sale. Initially hesitant, Gerard eventually seemed to warm to the idea of tidying up. We stumbled across forgotten treasures like my mother’s paintings of cows, fruits and vegetables, flowers and an old pencil sketch of myself when I was probably three years old and my brother drawn by Alfons, a painter who had done some work for my parents many years ago. Sorting through boxes of old photos brought back memories of the different families and it would have been nice if Marcel had lent a hand. It was an intense day, and to clear my head, I went jogging to the beach, right through the beautiful Meijendel dunes, enjoying the fresh air and tranquillity of the sandy landscape. I ran this route many times and it was probably the last one for a long time. That night, Marcel and his son David joined us for dinner at Gerard’s house. The absence of Mirelle, my brother’s partner, was explained as due to her late drinks with friends the night before, at least, that was the explanation given. I made sauerkraut with sausage and despite the mixed emotions and the complexity of changing family dynamics, there was a sense of unity, and I wondered if it would stay that way.

On the chilly early morning of January 31st, I was busy scraping ice off my car windows, getting ready to drive back to Berlin. As I passed by my mother’s grave, I felt a quiet sadness and wondered when I’d be able to visit again. Later that day, while walking through Berlin with my friend Juliane, we got to talking about how tough it is for over 30,000 Australians who can’t get back home. We have regular flights here in Germany, but it’s not easy for them. Flights are hard to find unless you book way ahead, and they can be really expensive. People have to be super flexible with their travel plans, choosing different dates, flights, and even landing cities in Australia just to find a spot. It’s a hassle, but it’s what you have to deal with if you want to fly these days.

Flight cap on international arrivals between 15th January and 30th April:

ACT	0	Not accepting passenger arrivals.
NSW	1,500	From 15 February ~ 3,000 passengers per week.
NT	0	Not accepting passenger arrivals but has provided 500 quarantine places per ~17 days in the Howard Springs Quarantine Facility for designated flights from London, Paris, New Delhi and Chennai.
SA	490	From 15 February 530 passengers per week.
Qld	500	From 15 February ~ 1,000 passengers per week.
Tas	0	Not accepting passenger arrivals.
Vic	1,120	From 15 February 1,310 passengers per week.
WA	512	No information available.

Berlin, 2nd February

I spent the morning tackling various chores around the house and made a trip to the OBI DIY store for some supplies. Once home, I continued tidying up, and stored things like my mother’s paintings and drawings. It was a day of clearing out and letting go. I also passed on some old toys, like LEGO I had brought from the Netherlands, to the kids of our Greek neighbours. It’s rewarding to see items you no longer need bring joy to others. Similarly, we brought some of my mum’s clothes to Juliane’s family in Schmirma. They appreciated the gesture, finding value in things that were still in good condition. Gerard, however, still holds onto some items he wasn’t ready to part with, which I totally understand.

Later in the day, I prepared our car for sale—washing and vacuuming it thoroughly. The sale process went incredibly smoothly, thanks to the website wirkaufendeinauto.de By registering and entering all the details upfront, we immediately got a purchase price and avoided lengthy sales negotiations. Within an hour, the car was history. On our way back, we stopped to pick up some food from the Asian restaurant near Görlitzer Park because we weren’t allowed to eat inside. The meal tasted good, but the sheer amount of packaging it came with left me feeling frustrated. The excessive use of materials in packaging is something that’s increasingly hard to ignore, especially considering the environmental impact. According to a report by ZDF, by the end of 2020, households in Germany were producing about 6% more waste than usual, a spike attributed to the quarantine measures that forced everyone to stay indoors. The increase in rubbish raises important questions not just about whether we’re sorting and recycling it correctly, but also about the materials being used for packaging in the first place. Plastic, especially the single-use variety that’s commonly used for food packaging, has been a significant contributor to this problem. Recognising the environmental impact, a new regulation is set to take effect across Europe this year aimed at tackling this issue. This rule will ban the use of single-use plastics, a move that encourages more sustainable practices in industries and businesses reliant on disposable packaging. And yes, we should always try to avoid businesses where they use single-use packaging.

4th February

A handy second-hand portable suitcase scale arrived in the post, just in time. The day was spent further organising and tidying our home, making sure everything was in place for the new tenants who would soon be moving in.

The next day, amidst our usual work, we had a visit from Elisabeth, Juliane’s cousin. The conversation turned to our upcoming trip, specifically the coronavirus test we needed before our flight. Elisabeth, who had become somewhat of an expert due to her job requiring bi-weekly tests (she works with elderly people), shared her experiences with the rapid test. However, we needed a polymerase chain reaction (PCR) test, which is a bit more involved.

6th February

The news from Western Australia caught our attention. The state had just finished a tough five-day lockdown and Premier Mark McGowan and Health Minister Roger Cook stressed how crucial it is to follow COVID-safe rules. They are obviously focused on stopping the spread of the virus and improving how we spot it in the community. This made us think about the different ways countries around the world are handling the pandemic. Juliane started packing her suitcases and uses an app to carefully organise her clothes—186 items, not including socks and underwear. She took photos of each item, sorted them, and decided which suitcase they should go into. Some clothes she would take with her right away, some she would store at her parents’ house to be sent later, and some she would keep in the basement. Seeing how organised she was made me think that I should start packing soon too.

On February 7th, wrapped warmly against the cold, we went out for a long walk through our neighbouring districts, facing the “Grenzwetterlage” weather phenomenon. In this condition, cold air from the north of Germany meets the milder southern air right in the middle of the country, causing temperature fluctuations from a biting -20 to a more gentle 10 degrees Celsius.

A few days later, an unexpected update about our trip disrupted our plans. Our flight, initially set for February 15th to Sydney, was now delayed to February 24th and rerouted to Adelaide. The email from Qatar Airways stated: 

At Qatar Airways, we continue our commitment to getting you safely where you need to be. The passenger list is continually assessed and based on a range of criteria, including compassionate and medical requests, connecting flights, booking class, party size etc. 

This left us wondering whether the changes were simply based on a first-come, first-served basis.

Amid this uncertainty, we considered a backup plan and thought about booking an additional flight that could be cancelled if our original plans for the 24th materialised. We speculated that perhaps passengers in business class might have a better chance of maintaining their reservations, as airlines needed to cover their costs to some degree. Meanwhile, other travel options seemed limited. Trains were not running, and most shipping companies declined to carry passengers, although we briefly entertained the idea of travelling by container ship for two months. The next possible flight with Qatar Airways was not until April 1st, and other airlines had either ceased operations to Australia, flew only sporadically, or charged exorbitant prices.

By the time I had packed my suitcases, I had considered the varied climates we might encounter. My luggage included a 20kg trolley and a well-loved 45+ litre backpack that together held about 30kg, excluding the 7kg of hand luggage. My packing list comprised not only clothes but essential electronics, a travel fishing rod, some tools, two sleeping bags, and some books. We planned to have a box of camping gear shipped to us once we arrived in Adelaide, including clothes suited for colder weather.

Alongside, it was time to put our finances in order. I set up an Excel spreadsheet to track the expenses already incurred and anticipated for the trip. The overview also included fixed monthly costs back home, like mortgage payments, insurance, and subscriptions, to ensure we had a clear overview of our financials in the next six months. Additionally, I incorporated a buffer to support us for another six months, should we not find employment immediately or decide to extend our break. This planning exercise was relevant for navigating the uncertainties ahead with a bit more confidence.